Dance of the Horse Tzijolaj

performed on the steps of Capilla del Calvario

in Chichicastenango, Guatemala

Painting again after many months of vacation feels wonderful. I decided to "warm up" by going over my photos of Guatemala and researching the significance of one of the most intriguing sights we saw in Chichi on the steps of the smaller church across the marketplace from St. Tomas. On the side of the wooden horse in one of my photos the name EL TZIJOLAJ was printed. That was my reference point for research here at home. The rider on the horse is Santiago, or St. James. He is the guardian and protector of pathways. The icon of Tzijolaj syncretizes St. James with the indigenous supernatural. A member of one of the many Cofradias in Chichicastenango, carries Tzijolaj in his arms and dances to the slow rhythm of a drum and flute, while other members kneel and pray together, in the directions of north, south, east, and west. The carrier of Tzijolaj has a rocketball in the other hand and soon comes out to the middle of the steps of the chapel and slowly swirls while the fireworks go off and smoke surrounds the area. The performance gives an uncomprehending bystander a feeling of great excitement and you don't know whether to look, take pictures or join in the prayers. Ah, the wonderful experience of travel and discovery.